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30 Years at the Jeweller’s Bench: What Life and Craft Have Taught Jana Salabová

The early 1990s were less about polished business plans and more about a determined pursuit of a dream. From a small workshop at home, Jana Salabová built a modern family-run jewellery business with a studio in Prague. What does she consider the greatest lessons of her professional and personal life?
 
Beginning

The early 1990s must have been a turbulent time for the industry. How do you remember those years?

‘At nineteen, under the communist regime, I refused to work on a factory production line and chose to study at a teacher training college instead. The early days of the business were not about having a gleaming boutique. My first workshop occupied a single room in our village home, and customers from nearby Ústí nad Orlicí would walk four kilometres to see me. I simply had an overwhelming desire to create.

To buy our first machines, we had to mortgage two houses. My parents were too terrified to sleep, but I was as stubborn as a mule and kept pushing ahead. Not for a moment did I doubt that it would work out.’

Jan Salabova with husband

Is there a particularly memorable experience from the early days of your business?

‘When we wanted to build a workshop with a shop, the banks refused us a loan on security grounds. I even travelled to the bank’s head office in Prague with the local branch manager to plead our case. It was no use. Then an entirely ordinary customer, whose jewellery I happened to be repairing, arranged a six-year loan for me within a few days. He worked for a savings bank.

It is fascinating to see that when you do things properly and honestly, help can come from the most unexpected places.’

Salaba Jewellery Studio Beginnings

What was your vision when you founded the jewellery business?

‘I wanted to create my own original collections and designs to keep ready in a drawer. Over time, however, I realised that I was not doing that at all. Creating pieces purely according to my own ideas was a luxury at the time; first and foremost, I had to earn a living. So I began making jewellery strictly according to my customers’ wishes.

Looking back, I can see that the need to listen to our customers ultimately became our greatest added value.’

Choose your own ring using our online jewellery configurator.

Jewellery-making technology must have advanced enormously over the past 30 years. What was the greatest turning point for you?

‘It came at a trade fair in Munich, when I realised that 3D modelling was the secret behind the precision of jewellery made abroad. It was actually a matter of chance. Under normal circumstances, I would never have had time to learn how to use 3D software, but I happened to injure my leg and had to stay in bed. Then I received an email offering a one-week trial version. I persevered, even though I was fifty and my husband initially had no faith at all in an investment of one hundred thousand Czech crowns.

Learning software like that is like taking up the violin at fifty. Photoshop is child’s play by comparison. But our renders later even confused professional photographers at trade fairs, as they could not understand how they achieved such extraordinary sharpness.’

How is jewellery made

Has the way Czech people view materials and precious stones changed as well?

‘Enormously. Platinum was practically unavailable under communism; the regime apparently regarded it as a relic of the bourgeoisie. Customers have told me that people would queue for the few rings available, just as they did for books. When I got married in 1986, my engagement ring with an ordinary cubic zirconia cost more than my husband’s entire monthly salary.

Today, an average salary can buy you a ring with a natural diamond. The market is also filling up with laboratory-grown diamonds. They are perfectly suitable for everyday wear, but because their production is so extremely energy-intensive, I remain an advocate of natural diamonds.’

 

 

SALABA is now known as a thriving family-run business. How does working together as a family operate in practice?

‘When you work with your husband 24 hours a day, it is a baptism of fire. At times, being able to escape and teach at an art school saved my sanity.

There was also a period when I spent my evenings struggling to add new products to the online shop, while my husband complained that I was wasting my time sitting at the computer and that we were only pouring money into the business anyway.

Návrh bez názvu (5)

It was not easy for him either. He had trained as a mechanical engineer, had a good job and a secure livelihood. Yet he decided to give all of that up. He also invested part of his life, his security and his own plans in the family business.

To be honest, I was on the verge of complete frustration and ready to give up. That was precisely when our daughter Klára stepped in. She took charge of the online shop and social media and effectively saved the brand.’

Klara Salabova a mother Jana Salabova

SALABA Jewellery Studio Family-owned business

The Most Beautiful Jewellery from Hong Kong and Six Things I Loved About the Fair

Imagine walking through one of the world’s largest jewellery fairs. On every floor, you are surrounded by Paraíba tourmalines, sapphires, tanzanites and sparkling diamonds – and you are, in all likelihood, the only jeweller there from the Czech Republic. That is exactly what my time in Hong Kong was like.
 

In this article, I will introduce you to six of the latest trends and experiences that impressed me most: from an enormous venue filled with gemstones and welcoming traders to De Beers’ Desert Diamonds concept, celebrating ‘imperfect’ natural stones.

If you would like to discover why jewellers have fallen in love with coloured gemstones and platinum this year, read on.

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I recently returned from Hong Kong, where I attended one of the world’s largest international jewellery fairs – the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair September 2025. It was an unforgettable experience. And I have a feeling I was the only female jeweller there from the Czech Republic!

Here are six things that impressed me most about the Hong Kong fair:

  1. A fair spread across two enormous venues

  2. The opportunity to buy rare gemstones – and the helpfulness of the sellers

  3. De Beers and the Desert Diamonds concept

  4. Coloured gemstones and vintage cuts

  5. The rise of platinum jewellery

  6. A GIA alumni gathering and an unexpected interview

 

1. A Fair Spread Across Two Enormous Venues

The fair took place at two locations: a vast venue dedicated to gemstones – including coloured stones, rough and cut diamonds, as well as laboratory-grown diamonds – and a multi-storey convention centre displaying finished jewellery.

Moving between the two felt like stepping into another world.

Even after three days of walking 20 kilometres a day, I still did not manage to see everything. The finished jewellery section featured some truly extraordinary pieces, including a substantial diamond necklace – although we were not told its price.

Seeing the very best of the jewellery world in person was a feast for the eyes and an incredible source of inspiration.

Substantial Gold Pendant with Gemstone

2. The Opportunity to Buy Gemstones – and the Helpfulness of the Sellers

Hong Kong surprised me with its strong commercial focus, unlike European fairs, which tend to be more about ‘simply’ finding inspiration. As a small family business that does not purchase hundreds of carats of a single type of gemstone, I was still able to buy beautiful stones for a customer’s bespoke piece without any difficulty. The sellers gave me their time, and even transactions worth just a few thousand were completed with a smile.

We were even allowed to handle and examine an almost 50-carat Paraíba tourmaline worth several million Czech crowns. This openness and helpfulness were among the highlights of the entire event, as it is rare to encounter gemstones of such beauty and size in person.

Paraiba

3. De Beers and the Desert Diamonds Concept

One concept that caught my attention at the fair was Desert Diamonds by De Beers. It deliberately celebrates natural diamonds with subtle colour tones – champagne, pale yellow or brown – as an alternative to perfectly white stones.

De Beers and the Desert Diamonds

The emphasis is on ‘imperfect’ beauty and character: even someone without specialist knowledge can immediately recognise that it is a natural diamond, rather than a perfectly manufactured, colourless and almost flawless laboratory-grown one.

Hong kong and jewellery

I personally feel very close to this approach, and our customers also appreciate these ‘imperfect’ natural diamonds. A beautiful example is an engagement ring with a yellow diamond that we recently created to order. I am convinced that coloured diamonds will become increasingly sought after in the coming years, particularly among those looking for something different from standard mass-produced jewellery.

4. Coloured Gemstones and Vintage Cuts

Hong Kong was a paradise for coloured gemstones – from sapphires, emeralds and rubies to Paraíba tourmalines, which impressed me most of all. The selection ranged from small aquamarines to large tanzanites. It was clear that coloured stones are in great demand. Among the diamonds, I often saw vintage and old-mine cuts with slight asymmetries. Combined with colour, they look romantic and distinctive.

gems and jewellery salaba

This is also a response to laboratory-grown diamonds: a natural diamond with an old-mine cut has a history and tells a story, while a flawless synthetic stone can feel cold and almost too perfect.

I love this return to classic styles and hope the trend will soon reach the Czech Republic as well.

5. The Rise of Platinum Jewellery

The return of platinum was clearly visible at the fair. As gold prices rise, more customers across Asia are choosing it. In India, men wear platinum wedding rings, while platinum chains and bracelets are currently enjoying a major boom in China.

The difference in price is narrowing, platinum does not turn yellow or require rhodium plating, it is hypoallergenic and much rarer than gold. For many people, it is therefore the logical choice.

Platinum remains less common in Europe, but it is undoubtedly thriving in Hong Kong. At SALABA Jewellery, we have worked with platinum for many years and are one of the few jewellery studios in the Czech Republic capable of creating bespoke pieces from it.

PLATINA_en

6. A GIA Alumni Gathering and an Unexpected Interview

I also managed to attend a GIA Alumni gathering at the fair. Having completed a GIA gemmology course in New York, I did not want to miss it. I met colleagues from around the world, heard a message from the former head of the GIA and witnessed the role being handed over to the institution’s new president and CEO.

GIA

And there was a little bonus: as one of the few Europeans and very likely the only Czech woman there, I gave a short on-camera interview to an Asian media outlet about my impressions of the fair. It was slightly nerve-racking, but a wonderful experience. I was delighted that the organisers were interested in hearing my perspective.

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A week at the Hong Kong fair showed that the world of jewellery is changing rapidly. The vast venue filled with gemstones, the helpfulness of the sellers and the new Desert Diamonds campaign all confirm that natural diamonds with subtle colour tones are becoming increasingly popular.

Coloured sapphires, emeralds and tanzanites dominate display cases, while old-mine cuts and platinum evoke the elegance of earlier times.

As the price of gold continues to rise, platinum is becoming a logical choice for many customers. For me, meeting fellow GIA alumni was equally inspiring and confirmed just how important professional qualifications are in this industry.

If you would like to learn more about these subjects, read our article about platinum, discover how diamonds are graded according to the 4Cs or explore the symbolism of coloured gemstones.

We would be delighted to share more of our experiences with you – book a consultation, visit our studio or let us know in the comments which jewellery trends caught your attention.

How to Care for Your New Jewellery: A Complete Guide

Buying a new piece of jewellery is a wonderful life event. Whether it is a sparkling ring, bracelet,...

Diamond as an investment

Understanding a diamond’s basic characteristics – the 4Cs of Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat – and familiarising yourself with the certificate that guarantees the stone’s authenticity will help you understand its true value before making a purchase.


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4C DIAMOND, Properties and Primary Criteria of the GEM

  • Colour
  • Clarity
  • Cut
  • Carat
  • Certificate – the gemstone’s birth certificate

1. DIAMOND COLOUR

Colour is one of a diamond’s fundamental characteristics. Most diamonds range from colourless to faintly yellow. A diamond’s colour grade is determined using the D–Z scale established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

The highest grade is colourless (D, exceptional white+). The more colourless the stone, the higher its price. Diamonds can occur in a wide range of colours, from subtle brown tones to vivid yellow, pink, purple, red and blue.

barvy_diamantů_kvalita_zlatnictvi_salaba_zlatnicke_studio
 

2. DIAMOND CLARITY

Every diamond bears traces of its formation. Clarity grades classify jewellery-quality diamonds according to their subtle internal and external characteristics. The clarity scale considers the size, number, position and visibility of these characteristics under 10× magnification.

The fewer inclusions and blemishes a diamond has on its surface or within the stone, the higher its clarity grade and value. Clarity is graded on a scale ranging from FL to I:

  • FLAWLESS (FL) – no internal or external characteristics
  • INTERNALLY FLAWLESS (IF) – no internal inclusions; only minor surface characteristics may be present
  • VERY, VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (VVS) – minute inclusions that are extremely difficult to identify under 10× magnification
  • VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (VS) – very small inclusions that are difficult to identify under 10× magnification
  • SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (SI) – small inclusions that are not visible to the naked eye through the crown
  • INCLUDED (I) – distinct inclusions that are visible to the naked eye through the crown

 

 

 

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3. DIAMOND CUT

Cut is the most important and also the most complex characteristic considered when assessing a diamond. Cutting rough diamonds of all shapes and sizes is a true art that requires highly skilled cutters and exceptional manual dexterity.

Diamonds can be cut into various shapes, including square, pear and heart. The round brilliant is probably the best-known. A diamond’s proportions play a significant role in determining its brilliance, lustre and sparkle. Symmetry grades describe variations in the parameters that define the diamond’s proportions.

A brilliant-cut diamond achieves its full beauty only when precisely calculated angles and facets are used. The quality of a diamond is therefore always assessed on the basis of two elements: its brilliance and its overall appearance.


tvary_briliantů_výbrusy_diamantů_zlatnictvi_salaba_zlatnicke_studio

4. CARAT - THE WEIGHT OF A DIAMOND

Alongside colour, clarity and cut, carat weight is another determining factor when identifying and establishing the value of a diamond. The weight of all gemstones is measured internationally in carats, commercially abbreviated to ‘ct’.


1 ct (metric carat) = 200 mg = 1/5 g (gram)

Carats are divided into tenths, hundredths and – when electronic carat scales are used – even thousandths. Very small diamonds are measured in ‘points’, with one point equal to one hundredth of a carat (0.01 ct). A diamond’s weight is determined using specialist diamond scales.



rozbor_diamantů_přírodních_zlatnictvi_salaba_zlatnicke_studio


CERTIFICATE OF AUTHENTICITY

A certificate of authenticity is the diamond’s birth certificate and is issued following an impartial professional examination. It verifies the diamond’s characteristics and confirms its suitability for use in jewellery. Certificates are issued by gemmological laboratories around the world.

The best-known and most respected institutions include the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the International Institute of Diamond Grading and Research (IIDGR) and the International Gemological Institute (IGI). These three institutions enjoy an excellent reputation worldwide, and their assessments can be relied upon.

A diamond certificate confirms the quality and characteristics of the stone but does not provide an estimate of its price. Certificates are usually issued for diamonds weighing more than 0.30 ct.



tester_diamantů_maboratorních_přírodních_moissanitů_zlatnictvi_salaba_zlatnicke_studio


 

At SALABA Jewellery Studio, we offer certified natural diamonds and laboratory-grown diamonds accompanied by certificates issued by the renowned American gemmological institutions GIA or EGL USA.

You can view our current selection of certified diamonds here.

Every diamond weighing more than 0.30 ct supplied by us has its identification number laser-inscribed on the stone’s girdle. This number matches the one shown on its certificate. Our customers can verify that the two identification numbers correspond at any time, providing lifelong assurance of their diamond’s authenticity and unique identity.

 

Kontrola shody číselného kódu s certifikátem      Certifikát o pravosti diamantu EGL USA      

 

 

Certificate of authenticity

AT SALABA JEWELLERY STUDIO, WE GUARANTEE THE AUTHENTICITY AND QUALITY OF OUR GEMSTONES 

Each piece of jewellery set with a natural gemstone comes with its own certificate confirming the stone’s authenticity, size and quality. Diamonds weighing more than 0.30 ct are accompanied by an international certificate issued by a renowned gemmological laboratory, such as GIA or HRD. The certificate number is laser-inscribed on the diamond’s girdle and matches the identification number shown on the certificate.

Our customers can verify that these identification numbers match at any time, giving them lifelong assurance of their diamond’s authenticity and unique identity.

WHAT INFORMATION CAN YOU FIND IN THE CERTIFICATE?

  • Name of the gemmological laboratory (GIA or HRD)
  • Laser inscription and identification number
  • Date
  • Carat weight
  • Clarity grade
  • Colour grade
  • Cut
  • Diamond proportions
  • Additional information, including polish, symmetry and fluorescence

If you are unsure what any of these terms mean, read our article Diamond as an Investment.

 

THE GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA)

The Gemological Institute of America developed the first diamond grading system in the mid-1930s. In 1953, it was officially introduced for use by diamond dealers, valuers and jewellers. 

GIA IS THE MOST KNOWN AND WIDELY USED DIAMOND GRADING SYSTEM IN THE WORLD 

In the original system, diamond colours were described using terms based on the locations where the stones were mined. Over time, this was replaced by a letter-based scale, on which D represents the highest colour grade.

To assess clarity, GIA developed a system that considers both the internal and external characteristics of a cut diamond. The highest clarity grade is Flawless (FL). When grading a diamond’s cut, its proportions, polish and symmetry are also assessed. 

THERE ARE A NUMBER OF GEMOLOGICAL LABORATORIES. AMONG THE MOST FAMOUS AND RECOGNIZED INSTITUTIONS INCLUDE: 

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA),

International Institute of Diamond Grading and Research (IIDGR),

The International Gemological Institute (IGI) and HRD Antwerp (HRD).

 

gia_certifikat_pravosti_diamant_zlatnictvi_salaba_zlatnicke_studio

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