Behind every beautiful diamond lies a long journey in the hands of a diamond cutter. Their skill, intuition and experience determine which shape and cutting method they choose for each stone.
BRILLIANT CUT
The brilliant is often regarded as the ‘standard’ or most common diamond cut, as 95% of all diamonds are cut into this shape. Its popularity is primarily due to its mathematically calculated proportions, which make maximum use of the light entering the stone.
Light rays penetrate the diamond and are reflected back, creating brilliance and ‘fire’. Fire refers to the splitting of white light into spectral, rainbow colours as the light rays are refracted.
HISTORY
The history of diamond cutting is exceptionally rich and dates back to the 13th century. The earliest shape was a double pyramid, also known as an octahedron. The top was flattened, giving the diamond four facets on both the upper and lower sections. Later, the sharp corners were ground away, giving the diamond a rounder overall shape. This cut was subsequently modified and refined in various ways.
The major turning point came in 1919, when diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky published his calculations for the modern brilliant cut. Tolkowsky devised angles and proportions that produced a visibly shallower crown and pavilion, a perfectly round outline and a base tapering to a point. A brilliant-cut diamond offers exceptional brilliance and fire and always has 58 facets.
BEST SUITED TO
Any style of ring, whether a solitaire or a halo design. The round brilliant is the most popular diamond shape, primarily because of its exceptional ability to reflect light within the gemstone. You can never go wrong with a brilliant – it is a classic that never goes out of style.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A BRILLIANT AND A DIAMOND
In the past, diamonds were often referred to simply as brilliants because other diamond shapes were either unavailable or unaffordable for most people. Under the influence of English and the phrase ‘Diamonds are forever’, people began to speak more often of diamond jewellery rather than brilliant jewellery. So what is the difference? A diamond is the raw material, while brilliant refers to a particular cut.
PRINCESS
The princess cut is now the second most popular diamond shape after the brilliant. Although it is a relatively young cut, it has already won many admirers. Many women love it for its beautiful, simple and timeless design. This gemstone shape was created by Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz in 1969. It became particularly popular during the 1980s and 1990s.
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APPEARANCE
The princess is a square cut with sharp corners and 59 facets. Viewed from above, it has a square outline with a visible X-shaped pattern. From the side, it resembles an inverted pyramid.
Thanks to these characteristics, the princess cut has become a true classic over the years. It has also gained popularity among men, as its beautiful, geometrically clean shape can appear more distinctive than a round brilliant cut.
BEST SUITED TO
Many styles of ring, although this gemstone shape stands out particularly well in solitaire and halo designs. Whatever style you choose, make sure the ring has correctly positioned claws protecting the corners of the gemstone. Because of the stone’s sharp corners, these areas are the most susceptible to damage or chipping.
Although the princess cut is very popular in engagement rings, its versatility means it looks beautiful in all types of jewellery. Princess-cut diamonds are striking in rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces. You may also recognise square diamonds from tennis bracelets, where this cut looks particularly beautiful.
CUSHION
HISTORY
This diamond shape can trace its origins back to the 17th century, when its predecessor, the Old Mine Cut, was created. The cushion cut as we know it today emerged thanks to technology developed in the 19th century, which enabled more precise rounded cuts.
Today, an even more modern method is used to create this diamond shape, adding an extra set of facets to the pavilion, or lower section, of the diamond. A cushion-cut diamond is instantly recognisable by its curved sides and rounded corners.
APPEARANCE
The shape resembles a cushion, hence its name. It combines elements of the princess and oval cuts, with rounded corners and usually 61 facets. This cut has a fuller appearance than, for example, a brilliant and can create what is known as the ‘crushed ice’ effect. We offer this modern shape in both square and rectangular versions.
OUR TIP
A cushion-cut diamond is an excellent choice if you are looking for a more affordable yet beautiful diamond.
BEST SUITED TO
Any engagement ring. The cushion cut has historically been associated with vintage halo rings. The surrounding halo accentuates the beauty of this shape even further.
It will appeal particularly to women who prefer unconventional or vintage jewellery, in which the cushion shape truly stands out. The cut is now also highly popular thanks to Meghan Markle’s engagement ring, which features a diamond in this very shape.
EMERALD
HISTORY
This shape was developed as early as the 15th century and is one of the oldest diamond cuts. It gained its greatest popularity during the 1920s thanks to the distinctive decorative style of Art Deco, which also influenced engagement-ring trends.
It is known as the emerald cut because emeralds look particularly striking in this shape. The cut became so closely associated with the gemstone that it was named after it.
APPEARANCE
Emerald-cut diamonds have step-cut facets resembling a staircase, much like the Asscher cut. An emerald-cut diamond has 57 facets: 25 on the crown, 24 on the pavilion and eight on the girdle.
The length-to-width ratio of an emerald cut is most commonly around 1.5, giving the gemstone its rectangular shape. This ratio is also frequently seen in rings set with green emeralds.
OUR TIP
Very little material is lost when producing this cut, making emerald-cut diamonds an attractive option at a lower price. However, because of the large open table, inclusions and impurities can be visible to the naked eye. It is therefore best to choose a diamond with good clarity and little colour.
BEST SUITED TO
The Art Deco rings already mentioned, which you can also find in our collection. In addition to vintage-style rings, this stone shape looks exceptional in simple yet beautiful solitaire settings.
The elongated shape visually lengthens the fingers, while any piece of jewellery featuring an emerald-cut gemstone appears highly elegant. The emerald cut creates particularly refined engagement and wedding rings. It is therefore no surprise that celebrities such as Angelina Jolie and Kim Kardashian love diamond rings featuring this cut.
ASSCHER
HISTORY
This cut was invented by Dutch diamond cutter Joseph Asscher in 1902. It closely resembles the emerald step cut. Like the emerald cut, it became highly popular after the First World War, primarily because of the Art Deco movement.
APPEARANCE
The Asscher cut looks very similar to the emerald cut, but there are important differences between them. The Asscher is square and has 74 facets, whereas the emerald cut is rectangular and has 57.
Both feature large, step-like facets on the upper and lower sections of the gemstone. However, the corners of an Asscher-cut diamond are more deeply cropped than those of an emerald-cut diamond, giving it an almost octagonal appearance. This creates a captivating sparkle. Diamond experts therefore compare the Asscher cut to a mirrored labyrinth of endless corridors.
BEST SUITED TO
Vintage-style rings, where the unique open facets of this gemstone shape can truly stand out. The Asscher cut also looks beautiful in halo rings. As it does not produce intense sparkle on its own, surrounding it with smaller diamonds enhances its brilliance.
In addition to rings, the Asscher cut is ideal for tennis bracelets and brooches.
OUR TIP
f you choose an Asscher-cut diamond, remember to pay attention to several important details. Its large table – the uppermost facet of the diamond – allows you to see deep inside the stone. It is therefore important to select a diamond with a clarity grade of at least VS2; otherwise, inclusions and impurities may be visible to the naked eye.
We also recommend choosing a higher colour grade. The more colourless the diamond, the better.